From Ukraine to My Kitchen: The Story of Fresh Bread, Family, and the Immigrant Experience
Food holds our stories; fresh bread carries the warmth of memory, the comfort of home, and the connection between generations.
Ukrainians see bread as life itself…
Bread… Whether slathered with soft butter or toasted with cinnamon and sugar, bread was an important thread in the tapestry of my childhood. Homemade crusty bread. Tangy sourdough was preferred, but we weren’t picky. This simple, yet humble food brought all of us joy, and filled my childhood house with incredible kitchen aromas.
Ask any Ukrainian about good homemade bread, and they will sing its praises…
My Father would speak warmly about fresh bread every chance he could. He was a Ukrainian child, though born in post WW2 Austria, spending some of his formative years in one of the refugee camps that dotted Europe. Always left a little hungry by circumstance, even after they were relocated to America, he would never turn down a loaf - especially the heel. My Dad would talk about pressing his nose against the town bakery shop glass, and inhaling the sweet scent of caraway seeded rye bread, bringing comfort to him in a new country. When reminiscing, he would share stories about how his father, a welder, would come home for lunch and revel in crusty slices smeared with lard and white onion (and a shot of vodka) .
Bread…
Ukraine is nicknamed “The Breadbasket of Europe”, and for good reason. The fertile soil and ideal growing conditions create abundant crops of wheat, corn, and sunflowers that are shipped well beyond its borders. Even the nation’s flag mirrors those fields; Golden across the horizon, beneath an endless blue sky.
“Khlib,” Bread is Sacred.
I am thinking of Ukraine, praying for Ukraine and its people. The images and spoken testimony that have reverberated through our world for over three years, still shock me. I don’t get political in my professional writing life, but the change in narrative about how this conflict developed has made me enraged and deeply, deeply sad. Even though I am Ukrainian-American, even though my roots have stretched across the shores of the Atlantic, and taken hold in the blessed safety of my grandparents chosen (and loved) adopted country, I can not ignore what those same ancestral roots are screaming for now. Protection. Safety. Support. Empathy. Humanity.
My Baba and Deda, like so many European displaced slave laborers, POWs, Jewish and non-Jewish survivors after World War II, lived through several years in European Displaced Persons camps. My grandparents considered themselves fortunate to have not only survived, but to have kept three young children alive (one born before the war, and two born during or just after in the camps). They lived through rampant camp illnesses (like Tuberculosis, which my dad suffered through as a toddler), as well as violence from other traumatized former prisoners and camp personnel.
By a combination of luck, quick thinking, and probably a bribe or two, they managed to move themselves into the more humane American-Run Displaced Persons camp, saving them from being repatriated to the Russian side. To be moved back to their home country would have meant another period of insecurity and death threats from surviving countrymen, with everyone still recovering from the aftershocks of the war.
Towards the end of his life, my father would have flashbacks of this time. He would tearfully recall scrambling for bread as a small child in an open square, tossed from the back of a military truck in a postwar camp. Men, women, and children fought for a loaf in the dirt rather than being handed one with dignity.
Bread… seems to hold the memories of home and survival for my family.
Echos of the Past
Seeing the leader of a sovereign nation and ally being treated as if a petulant child, rather than the man that has kept his country going through impossible odds, rattled every part of me. It made me question who we are as a nation, and how we can hold up to the image of the shining city upon a hill that Reagan once invoked. In this country, we’ve been blessed with prosperity, peace, and stable border nations. Ukrainians haven’t been as fortunate. They have placed their individual needs aside for the last three years, for the survival of their country and the safety of Europe.
How can we as Americans, not feel the need to help?
Using Flavors From My Heritage…
You may be wondering how a recipe comes into this emotional screed. The recipe I’m sharing today is an ode to my family’s connection with their ancestral country. This crusty sourdough bread uses tart dried fruit such as dried apricots, golden raisins, and dried cherries that are chopped and soaked in strong back tea. The softened fruit is added to a tried & true sourdough bread dough, along with a giant handful of slivered almonds. Even though an overnight rest in the fridge (to enhance the sourdough flavor) makes it a two day project, the generous and nutrient-packed loaves that this recipe yields are completely worth it.
Chewy, crusty, with the lovely tang of fresh sourdough. This Dried Fruit & Nut Sourdough Bread would have made my grandparents so, so happy.
What We Can Do
Please keep Ukraine in your thoughts and prayers. If you’re able, consider donating to World Central Kitchen to help families fleeing the front lines, those fighting on the ground, and the support staff needed to keep people safe. And continue to urge our leaders to do all they can for Ukraine, while ensuring the safety of us all.
Slava Ukraini.
Dried Fruit & Nut Sourdough Bread
yields 2 loaves
adapted from the Tartine Bread cookbook, by Chad Robertson
Equipment
1 digital scale
2 large bowls
2 tea towels
1 dough scraper
1 large dutch oven pot
Ingredients
*Please note that this is a two day recipe. Read all the way through. This is not a quick baking project!
For the Bread Dough
200 grams of foamy sourdough starter
700 grams plus 50 grams reserved of warm spring water
900 grams of unbleached bread flour
100 grams of whole wheat flour
20 grams of fine sea salt
rice flour optional
For the Dried Fruit & Nut Mixture
128 grams of dried golden raisins
128 grams of dried mixed fruit dried apricots, dried cherries, and dried dates are our favorite
128 grams of slivered almonds
96 grams of brewed strong black tea
Making the Dough
In a large mixing bowl combine the 700 grams of warm spring water and foamy starter. Mix gently with your fingertips to dissolve slightly.
Instructions
Making the Dough
In a large mixing bowl, combine the 700 grams of warm spring water and foamy starter. Mix gently with your fingertips to dissolve slightly.
Add the portioned bread flour and whole wheat flour to your starter/water bowl as well. Using your hands and a dough scraper, bring the mixture together until the flour is fully incorporated, and you have a nice basic dough. Scrape any remaining dough from your hands and the sides of the bowl into the bowl itself.
Let rest, covered with a tea towel, for 30-40 minutes. This is the first resting period where the proteins and starches in the flour will have time to absorb all of the water for a pliable dough.
After resting, uncover, add the salt, and the remaining 50 grams of warm spring water to the dough. Gently fold the dough over itself to mix the water in. You can also squeeze the dough through your fingers. It may break apart as you do this, but don't worry - just keep mixing!
Once the water is fully mixed into the dough, gently fold the sides of the dough onto itself three or four times, to introduce some air into the mix.
Gently transfer the dough into a lager bowl (or what I like to use, a medium-sized, clear, Rubbermaid container). Cover once more with a tea towel, and place on a warm countertop in the kitchen. This is the beginning of the 'bulk fermentation' stage.
Let the dough bulk for 30 minutes.
During this first period, chop your dried fruit, and soak for 20 minutes in (room-temperature) strong black tea in a medium sized bowl. Then, drain the fruit by dumping it into a fine mesh sieve over a bowl. Measure out your silvered almonds, and reserve both the fruit and nuts. Discard the tea.
After the 30 minutes are up, add the drained dried fruit mix and nuts to the dough. Grabbing one side of the dough, pull it up, and fold to the other side, allowing some air to be folding in. Repeat three to four times, folding both the dough and the fruit mix. Cover once again, and let rest 30 Minutes.
Repeat the folding process for a total of SIX (6) 30 minute periods, or about three hours of bulk fermentation/rise. The dough should be pillowy and soft by the end. The sides should pull easily away from the container and there should be a 20-30% increase in volume. If you think you need a bit more time, allow 1-2 more 30 minute rests and folds.
Next, we will shape and rest (the dough). Using a dough scraper, scrape the dough onto an unfloured work space. Lightly flour the surface of the dough, then, using the bench scraper, divide into two roughly equal pieces.
Flip each portion of dough over, so the floured side is now resting on the counter or board. Then, gently (but firmly), fold the edges of the dough onto itself, so the floured side is the outer surface of the dough ball. *see photo*. This side will be the outer crust of each loaf.
Lightly flour your hands and, with hands on each side of the round (you can use a bench scraper in one hand if you prefer), gently move the round to you, while pushing the opposite hand under the dough slightly, and rotating. You want to use your hands to shape the dough into a circle with a tight 'skin" on top. I find about 4 or 5 turns around do the trick. Tension is key to a sturdy crust.
Repeat with the second portion of dough.
(If the surface of the dough rips during the rounding, let the dough relax for ten minutes and start again.)
Let both rounds rest on the counter or board and cover with a towel to prevent drafts. Let the bread dough bench rest for another 30 minutes.
While the rounds are bench resting, the dough will relax and spread sightly. The edges will appear rounded, but should not look like they are dripping off the board. If it looks like it's spreading too much, the bulk ferment has not yet been for long enough. No worries though, simply round the dough again, and let rest again for 30 more minutes.
If all looks good, we will now go to the final shaping and the overnight rest:
Lightly flour the tops of each loaf and, using the scraper, flip the whole thing over so that the board side is now facing up, and the floured surface is facing down.
Grabbing the edge closest to you (on the bottom of the board), firmly stretch & fold over to the upper edge (top of the board side) and press the edge down. Next, grab the right edge of the dough and firmly stretch & fold over the center, towards the left side of the dough. Again, press firmly down with your fingertips. Grab the lefthand side of the dough and stretch & fold to the righthand side. Finally, take the portion the dough near the top of the board, and stretch towards the bottom side, closest to you. Flip the whole thing over, so the board side is now facing up. All of the seams should now be tucked under the bundle. The air that was introduced here will allow more rise, and create more tension within the bread for a sturdy loaf.
You're now going to repeat the rounding shaping by cupping your hands on either side of the loaf and gently turning & pulling towards you at the same time. This will create additional tension & stretch the surface to hold the seams together.
Repeat the whole process with the second loaf.
Take two medium sized bowls, and spread two clean dish towels into them. Mix of 50/50 rice flour to whole wheat flour, to sprinkle liberally on the dish towels. I use bread flour often as well.
Using the bench scraper, gently lift the dough rounds and flip over (what was the top is now facing down) into the prepared bowls. Same with the second loaf. Cover loosely with plastic wrap (and I like to fold the edges of the dish towels over the top of the bowls).
Let the bread rest overnight in the fridge before baking. 8-12 hours is plenty of fridge rest.
After your preferred rise time, preheat your oven to a whopping 475F (*important to note, I diverge with the book recommended 500 degree oven temperature here, because I don't think my oven can handle it). You are going to preheat your dutch oven (including the lid), in the oven at the same time. This takes about an hour.
While the oven is preheating, cut a generous square of parchment paper for each loaf. Once your pot & oven are at temperature, set a heatproof trivet on the counter, and very carefully retrieve your pot.
Gently turn out one of the loaves onto the parchment and then - taking the sides of the parchment with oven mitts on - lower into the pot.
Using a sharp paring knife or bread slasher, slash at least three vents into the bread. I like to do three horizontal slits, about 1/2 inch deep.
Replace the lid, and carefully return to you hot oven.
Reduce the oven temperature to 450F. Bake for 30 minutes covered. After the first baking period, you will then bake uncovered, for an additional 30 minutes. Finally, crack the oven door open without touching the temperature, and bake a further 10 minutes.
After all the baking, retrieve your pot and carefully take your bread out of the pot. It should be golden brown, with small crackly bubbles. If you gently tap the bottom of the loaf, it should sound hollow. As the bread cools, it will snap & pop.
Repeat the baking process again with the second loaf, by placing the pot back into the oven and raising the temperature back up to 475F, and repeating the steps above. (Be sure to reduce the temperature to 450F when you place the pot back into the oven!).
Let both loaves cool completely on a wire rack.
Notes
Other dried fruits that work well in this recipe are rehydrated raisins, figs, and
dates.